Who says outdoor bars need to close for the winter?

My first bar in Sydney left somewhat of an impression. It’s less than what I’d consider as ideal, but if you’re a sucker for big crowds and you’ve got company, Ryan’s Bar is a good place to go. It was the site of my initiation into the company – first drinks with the co-workers and a full-blown CBD demographic. Unless you go on a Friday, everyone (almost everyone) shows up in a suit. It’s conveniently located just behind Australia Square; a short walk from the major banks, private investment firms, Circular Quay, and the metro. Not surprisingly, we took a new hire there last night. Yup – to an outdoor bar in the middle of  our winter – it was so mild last night! I really thought there would’ve been more people there.

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And for once… it was easy to get something at the bar =) We did 4 rounds and I couldn’t believe that it was only about $25 a round for 5 of us. It definitely wasn’t the best beer, though. I really missed the quality over quantity. I seriously need to start brewing my own…

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Satang Thai

All the more reason to love Thainatown! Big servings, fresh ingredients, and cheap don’t always come together. But, occasionally, you get lucky; like I did with Satang Thai. It used to be that I would wait in a long line that crawled around Quay St during the lunch hours – elbow to elbow with UNI students and a few suits. The kitchen is almost exactly the same size as the tiny sit-in at the front. And then, I discovered the outpost across the street (literally across the street) – I have no idea how I missed it before!

Perhaps, it’s a little more “trendy” and the price is marginally higher. But the Chili Jam Chicken, Pad See Ew, and the (very rich) Massaman Curry… mmmmmmm… exactly the same!

Location: 20 Quay St (Haymarket)

Tel: +61 (02) 9280 0956

Avg Price at the take-away is probably around $7-8 while the sit-in across the street is more like $11-15 (but can be shared since the portion seems larger) – a bargain!! I should probably live closer to the area…

Revisiting Sir John Young Hotel

As my friend casually pointed out the obvious, if you want live music around Town Hall, you can pretty much get it on the hour (every hour) on a street corner, somewhere on George Street – and, of course, it’s free.

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Although, if you’re already around the area on a Saturday night, you can also step into Sir John Young Hotel . Here, you’ll find yourself eating paella while listening to a cover singer go through Jason Mraz, Men at Work, and One Republic… so not my groove. At least, the food is great! (check out: “Miro y La Tapa Guapa)

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¿Tienes una cita? Si. Esta noche.

Sometimes, everything you need to know is in the name.

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La Cita is actually known as one of the few Latin bars in Sydney that caters to the followers of salsa, bachata, merengue, and reggaeton; the name can be loosely translated in English as a date (though I think it’s more often used to indicate an appointment). Either way, it struck me as a dating spot and a “meeting place”; you’ll either spot couples or people that roll with their crew (usually groups arrive as all girls or all guys – and most are fairly young). I would’ve hoped for a bigger crowd, but I was there before midnight on a rainy Friday, and half the people out in the city were in pubs waiting for Uruguay vs. Ghana

A few things to keep in mind: there’s a $15 cover on Friday for entry (it gets you a drink at the bar – you can opt for a tequila shot with a mixer to start your night). I asked about the pricing for shots: $12-15 on average. You’re better off getting your free shot with the entry, then order the cheapest beer you can before hitting the dance floor. The crowd is a good mix between salsa students, really good dancers, and people who dance to their own beats =)

No pressure! Just fun times. (and make sure you smile at the DJ)

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Benjarong’s Khao Mun Gai

When I get a craving for something home-cooked, but I’m too lazy to make it myself, I go to Benjarong. They have one of the simplest dishes that I absolutely love: khao mun gai. You can apparently find it anywhere in Southeast Asia with a few variations on how it’s served. But it’s basically chicken that’s been boiled until cooked, served on rice, with a side of the same stock that cooked it. I have it with lots of chili on the side and the plainness of it reminds me of dishes that my grandmother used to make… good memories.

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Sydney “Winter” Festivals

Leave it to the city of Sydney to come up with headliner festivities every month. Apparently, I just missed the 57th Annual Film Festival and the Alpine Winter Festival just started tonight! No worries – I’ve got you covered. And here I thought I had nothing planned for the weekend. Besides, the World Cup is just getting even more interesting as we narrow down the teams from the Round of 16. (insert: “Go USA!“) I wonder how much sleep I’ll be getting next week. Note to self: must moderate drinking to stay up late enough for the actual games.

In any case, first plan for the weekend: I’m heading out to Cockatoo Island on Saturday afternoon. It’s a little random, I know. But this month also celebrates the 17th Biennale of Sydney and Cockatoo Island is apparently hosting the work of 56 artists. So I’m thinking massive art installations and exhibits on the largest island within Sydney Harbor? That could be cool. Especially since the island is a former prison and shipyard – maybe it’ll even be a little creepy. I just gotta make sure I don’t miss the last ferry out. That might suck. Second plan: must go to see the “winter wonderland” at Hyde Park (part of the Alpine Fest) – I’ll have to determine logistics of company or strictly go as a spectator.

If I come up with anything else, you can blame my ever growing social circle and constant need to do something. I’ve got both cameras charged and ready to go. Snap! Snap! Snap!

Stay tuned =)

Sydney Fish Markets

My very first trip to a fish market was when I was about 5 years old and I went with my grandmother to the palenke in Manila. I remember it smelled bad and I spent the whole time avoiding strategically placed puddles. I mean, when you’re 5 and you’re knee-high… that’s about the best view you can get.

Obviously, I’ve seen a lot more fish markets since then, and while I certainly don’t tower over anyone in height, I at least have a much better perspective on things; and, I assure you, walking into the Sydney Fish Market this afternoon was about as good as walking into a sample sale in Manhattan (when the doors just open).

There were so many different types of fish! And they were all fresh! Everything from albacore to morwong to yellow-spotted goatfish. There were some freaky looking ones too… and bay bugs (they look like lobsters that are curled up).

Most of the fishmongers also sold cooked seafood. You could pick up fish kebabs and seared scallops at less than $5! If you decide to eat when you get there, go towards the area with the cluster of different vendors – the seafood literally looked like it just got off the boat and went straight into the frying pan. And the blue crabs! They were massive little fuckers!

I’ve also never seen a 2 1/2 ft. Mahi Mahi or octopi sold en masse. Who eats that much octopus?? They had pool-sized tanks for their lobsters! Chris needs to get here stat. I need help manning the esky for my weekend trips to the fish market.

Bondi Coastal

For a runner, I think the Bondi to Coogee Coastal walk is a tough track for training. It’s such a battle with the hills. I’ve run it a few times, but never actually took my time to walk the course. Since Moses is leaving for Nigeria in a few days, and he’s never done the walk before, we thought it wouldn’t be a bad thing to cross this one off his list.

It was early enough so we decided to brunch at Brown Sugar on Curlewis. I always walk past this place every time I go to Bondi, but I’ve never actually stopped in. They have outdoor seating but the sun is usually on the opposite side during breakfast time so it’s excellent for people watching. The food always came out well-presented and you could smell the kitchen from outside – I find that that’s usually a good sign.

I’ve been craving pancakes for 6 months and finally satisfied myself when we ordered some buttermilk banana pancakes (to start!) – I really like that it wasn’t soggy (even though it was drenched in maple syrup), just a little doughy for some heft, but otherwise just right =)

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And it’s real bacon! Not ham that poses as bacon. And since it’s brunch… we gotta have eggs so we opted for the Moroccan Eggs – a little spicy, with chorizo sauteed in green peppers, onions, and tomatoes. Oh… and I used to wonder what made the perfect poached eggs. Is it when you can cut through the yolk, but it doesn’t run out immediately? MMmmmMMmm…

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I think the only thing I didn’t like about Brown Sugar was the service… it was a bit slow, but I don’t blame them – they just switched computer systems (apparently) so they were probably just struggling to keep up with the customers. I also thought it was weird that they took back our bill so quickly – I was still in the process of tipping and a different waitress came by and just took it away. Funny that – since it took forever for the food to come out, but it’s like they were rushing us to go. No matter. It was still a good meal.

Moses and I took about two hours to cover most of the walk, but we were running out of time so we couldn’t finish it. At least we found a nice cliff to snap a few.

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I’ll miss Moses… I remember when we first met and I told him I have no idea how I’ll survive without a social life in Sydney. Then he asked me what my plans are for ANZAC Day and I said, I’m attending a Rugby Union game tonight and doing a British Pub crawl tomorrow. Apparently, I’ll be fine. And so will he.

He’ll be in London for 3 days starting next Wednesday then traveling on to his final destination. He won’t have our beaches, but he’ll have family and his friends from home. He said if he ever comes back, he’ll definitely live by the beach. And for a non-beach person, that’s a very big deal.

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Vaucluse House to Milk Beach

Yesterday, I came across an old Time Out Sydney magazine that I must’ve kicked under my bed sometime in December. I don’t even remember reading it, but it was the Summer Issue and it had a list of Sydney’s “best” everything – from beaches to ice cream parlors, to a few secret hikes. I settled on finding the secluded Milk Beach in Vaucluse and Patagonia (an Argentinean icea cream spot in Coogee). It looked like a promising day… a cooler breeze than usual, but still hot under the sun.

I called Daniel and checked to see what he was up to – nothing planned; he was down to tag along for the day so we decided on meeting at the Junction at noon.

He came in from Inner West so it’s not the most convenient meeting point for him, but at least the 386 stop was right above the train station. We grabbed a quick bite to eat then took the 12:26PM bus on its way to Vaucluse. I think we both just made the assumption that because the bus was headed in the right direction, that it was also going to take the right road to where we were headed. We took the wrong bus.

386 goes down New South Head Road and takes it all the way up towards the direction of Watson’s Bay. But what we wanted was to go up Vaucluse Road and get off at the Strickland House. I guess that would’ve been too easy anyway.

Luckily, we got off the bus just before getting too far off track and we took Petrarch Ave from New South Head all the way down to Olola Ave. It was a long walk. We had to cut through a main road, two parks, a stable house, and several stairways before finding Milk Beach.

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The parks in Vaucluse are beautiful though. They’re empty and quiet; it’s very peaceful. There were these large trees everywhere that made me think of Hawaii.

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And Vaucluse House was pretty impressive. When we found it, we didn’t really know what we were looking at, much less have an idea of whether or not we were trespassing on private property. There were no signs and no staff. The buildings were Spanish Mission style and everything seemed grand – massive doorways, a long stable, a fireplace that I can walk into…

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The main house had multiple chimneys that looked like turrets and a wrap-around patio with plenty of seating.

-laughs- so much for making it to the beach in the early afternoon… it started to turn cloudy anyway. And the chances of me ever going to Vaucluse House (by choice) is very unlikely, so it was nice to have just stumbled onto it.

About 10 minutes walk from Vaucluse House (through a series of winding roads and a long stairway), we found the Strickland House. Yay! It’s not as impressive, but the view is pretty awesome.

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And, of course, a short walk behind the house is Milk Beach… empty, quiet, and with very granular almost-white sand.

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Much like Washaway, it’s not really a “swimmable” beach. Maybe early in the summer, but because boats dock around this little cove, it’s not the cleanest water. But it is one hell of a spot for sunbathing. We didn’t stay because the sun wasn’t cooperating, but we did follow the Hermitage Foreshore Walk. It’s a short 1.6k walk around the Vaucluse shoreline and, on the way, you’ll also find secluded Queen’s Beach. At the end of the walk, we found ourselves on a 325 bus stop and ended up going to Camp Cove anyway =)

Because it was cooler than usual, Camp Cove was desserted. We stayed until it started to rain and then made our way to Taste of Sydney at Centennial Park (we opted out of Patagonia for another day)…

Palm Beach and Iñaki’s Going-Away

Two hours north of the city, past Manly, the Narrabeen Lakes, and Avalon, between a massive bay and the Tasman Sea, you’ll find Palm Beach. On the long stretch of sand, you’ll come across both nude sunbathers and families, kite surfers and sea kayakers – there’s an occasional BBQ here and there, but mostly eskies. Although, despite all that – you can still just as easily find yourself a quiet spot and brave the strong waves every once in a while.

Towards the Southeast end of the beach near the rock pool, the water is shallow enough that you can walk 30 meters out or more and it still just barely touches your chest. I noticed that quite a few up-and-coming surfers (little kids) stake out this spot to practice standing on their boards. So, most of the families are down this end as well. Basically, the closer you get to Barrenjoey Head (where the kite surfers are), the quieter it is – and, probably, the less likely you’d just jump in the water.

The trip to Palm Beach was about a 2-hour ride from Wynyard Station – it’s $6.38 one-way to the beach and $6.30 on your way back. I wouldn’t arrive late for this bus, if I were you – it packs pretty quickly because it passes through lots of residential areas along the way. And it’s not the smoothest ride. However, once you’re past Newport, the driver picks up the speed since there’s fewer stops – you’ll probably pass three more beaches until you find yourself at Palm Beach.

Swimming is actually prohibited in many areas on the beach, but people don’t really pay attention to it – and there are two Surf Life Saver stations to keep an eye on swimmers in the safe zones. I guess a lot of what you do at Palm Beach is just catch waves – jump into it, get caught in one, splash around – the kind of stuff you would do as a kid (but still very much enjoy as an adult).

I only spent 2 hours at the beach and headed back for Iñaki’s going away party. (It was, after all, being held at my flat.) I got there just in time to help finish preparations until the guests arrived. I’m glad it was cooler evening (and that it wasn’t raining) – we could finally take advantage of our courtyard. I’m guessing almost 40 people showed up, if not more. They pretty much started arriving around 10PM and the last guests to arrive clocked in at around 1:30AM.

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Iñaki invited all of his Spanish friends so it was an evening full of Spanish music. And when the salsa music started – that was pretty much the rest of the night. I met a few people, and recognized faces from the last party. There was Davíd – our resident DJ for the night, Khalid (Milen’s friend – the chic who said I’ve got great thighs), Sven, Gabi, Prue – there’s definitely a lot of people whose names I can’t remember – and Mauricio. A bit of a salsero. He goes with a group to The Establishment on Tuesday nights (funny, because I’ve gone there twice but never saw him before). It sounds like this group of his goes from venue to venue, and he’s pretty serious with his dancing. A good instructor too. I’ll probably try and stop by The Establishment when they’re there to see what else I can learn.

I’ve almost forgotten how much I love (and miss salsa). Dancing last night felt so good. I think it’s because, as much as I like hip-hop and R&B, I can only really dance to salsa. And the best part is that the level of skill it requires is minimal, if you can shake your hips, and then it’s just a matter of following the leader (so don’t get stuck with a crappy one).

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-laughs- dancing last night reminded me of the last time I went to Bembe with Johan. There was another salsero there who taught me a few tricks. I wish I could do more advanced salsa. I can’t imagine ever turning more than once on a single beat, much less copy this girl I saw who turned four times on one beat. Crazy.

So to pick up some moves… I headed off to the South American Festival the next day…